A hearty Dutch breakfast consists of breads (wholemeal, nut, rye or even raisin), accompanied by wafer-thin slices of local cheeses and cold meats, appelstroop (a thick syrup made from concentrated apple juice), hagelslag (grated chocolate) or a combination of any of these. Dutch coffee is strong, while tea is usually weak and drunk without milk. Lunch is likely to be a sandwich or, particularly in winter, erwtensoep, a thick broth of split peas and chunks of smoked sausage. Another possibility is uitsmijter,bread covered with sliced ham or roast beef, grated cheese and a couple of fried eggs. The main meal of the day is usually eaten in the early evening. Dutch food tends to err on the heavy side. A traditional dish is stamppot (mashing pot), made from boiled potatoes and cabbage mashed with fried bacon and served with smoked rookworst sausage. Potatoes are a Dutch staple and can be a meal in themselves; frites, served with mayonnaise, are popular. Specialities include smoked eel, raw herring (usually eaten whole with chopped onions), bitterballen (deep fried meatballs) and stroopwafels (thin waffles sandwiched together with a cinnamon-spiced syrup, best eaten piping-hot from a street stall). Indonesian food is almost considered to be part of the national cuisine. Rijsttafel is a delicious and colourful array of 20 spicy treats, including satays, which are served with rice and - most often - lots of Dutch beer. As a point of etiquette, it is worth nothing that the Dutch tend to eat everything, including sandwiches, with a knife and fork. Drinking in Amsterdam is a centuries old tradition, so it is no surprise that the locals have an extensive vocabulary to order a glass of beer or genever (Dutch gin). The most common word for a glass of genever is borrel, but recht op en neer (straight up and down) and kamelenrug (camel's back) - used to indicate a glass of genever filled to the brim - are also popular terms. Beer, served with a modest head, in a small glass is known as kabouter pils (dwarf beer), while a large glass is known as a vaas (vase).

When the Dutch go out, they do not tend to eat Dutch food, so you may find yourself surprisingly limited if you want to sample the national fare. Haesje Claes, at Spuistraat, is not as smart or as expensive as D'Vijff Vlieghen, across the road at Spuistraat but both offer good solid meals. At The Pancake Bakery, one will find this Dutch speciality in all shapes and forms at cheap and cheerful prices - Prinsengracht Main courses cost f17. At the other end of the spectrum is The Excelsior, in the distinguished Hotel de l'Europe at Nieuwe Doelenstraat 2-8 which has gained a Michelin star for its haute cuisine. Another popular restaurant is the Café Americain, in the Hotel Americain at Leidsekade 97 where an excellent Sunday brunch is served in Art Nouveau surroundings. For the other 'national' dishes, try the Indonesian food of Orient at Van Baerlestraat 21 near the museums, or Speciaal at Nieuwe Leliestraat