Holland Casino Amsterdam, in the Lido, Max Euweplein 62 at Leidseplein, is said to be the only legal casino in town -- though there's no sign of any official action against those that presumably are illegal.

This is European gambling, with emphasis on the quiet games of roulette, baccarat, punto banco, blackjack, and others, though there are abundant one-armed bandits, which the Dutch call "fruit machines," and blackjack, poker, and bingo machines (start saving your euro coins!).

You need correct attire to get in (jacket and tie or turtleneck for men), and you also have to bring your passport to register at the door. The minimum age is 18.

There's a strong jazz scene, good music clubs, and enjoyable English-language shows at the little cabarets and theaters along the canals. The club and bar scene can be entertaining if not outrageous; the dance clubs may indeed seem quiet and small to anyone used to the flash of clubs in New York City, Los Angeles, or London.

However, the brown cafes -- the typical Amsterdam pubs -- have never been better. And there are always the movies: You can watch first-run U.S. blockbuster hits with their English soundtracks intact.